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Try to find a Helms manual (not Haynes I have one and it sucks) or a Honda Service manual.

The hardest part is getting of the bolt that holds on the crank pully, once you have that off the rest is cake, so I would suggest that you try that first before you go any further since you can not take off the timing cover without taking off the pully first.

1- jack up the front drivers side of the car at a minimum or the whole front end if you like and make sure you use jack stands and not just a jack for safety.

2- take off the front drivers side wheel (unless you live in Australia or England then it would be the passenger side) or left front wheel if you will.

3- in the back of the wheel well there is a plastic plug that allows you access to the engine bay right where the main crank pully bolt is.

now this where you ay want to stop. Are you sure that the timing belt is broken??? here is how you can tell for sure:

Take off your valve cover, there are three 10mm bolts across the top holding it on. The cover may be stuck on there pretty good so you may have to pry it off with a screw driver but be careful not to damage the head in the process by scratching the valve cover to head surface or else you may run into a leak later on. Then take off the top timing cover, there is one 10mm bolt on each side. Now you should be able to see the cam timing gear and timing belt. Now get your ratchet with a long extension and a 17mm end and put your car into neutral. Now put the 17mm end through the whole in the wheel well and on to the pully nut. Turn the nut in a counter clockwise direction, this will turn the whole bottom end of the motor, since that bolt is directly connected to the crank and bottom timing gear. As you are turning the motor, you should see the cam gear turn as well, if not, you have a broken timing belt. If it does turn, you have something else wrong with your car.

Ok now that you have determined that you definitely have a broken timing belt you may proceed.

4- ok you are going to need a friend for this one if you have a manual 5spd lude. Put the lude in 5th gear. Have your helper stand on the brake as hard as he can. This will prevent the motor from turning when you try to "break" the crank pully nut.

5- now try to undo the crank pully nut in the normal counter clockwise direction, if you have an impact gun this should not be a problem since an impact gun will usually do the job of breaking it loose. If not this is where the not so fun part is. Take your ratchet (1/2 inch drive is best but a 3/4 could work just not as strong) and the longest extension you have or many together. Now place the ratchet 17mm end onto the nut and grab yourself another jack stand or log or something to support the ratchet extensions and ratchet. You need this since you will be jumping on the ratchet to try and break loose the crank pully bolt. Hopefully you have enough extension so that the ratchet end can reach the 17mm bolt and still have the ratchet handle outside the wheel well with the jack stand supporting it. I hope this makes sense because I am having a hard time explaining it.

6- find your self a long bar or something that will fit over the ratchet handle and give you some leverage. Now jump on the bar and try to break loose the nut (counter clockwise) this may take some time and can be really frustrating, JUST DONT STRIP THE CRAK PULLY NUT!!! If you do then your hooped, that is why you have to support the ratchet perfectly in line with the nut with the jack stand or whatever. It is helpful to have another helper hold the ratchet in place so it does not slip while your giving her hell jumping up and down. When it breaks loose, give a nice sigh of relief and take a break. Leave the bolt in place, don't actually remove it until later.

I just like to do this first because it is the hardest part and some people can't break it loose and have to tow it to a mechanic to take out the bolt and then tow it home again to finish the job. Just keep at it and you'll get it, trust me!! I'm gonna scan the pages now and finish this how to later.

Ok, so you got the bolt off ok?? I have tried to upload the pages but the files are too big, the page says a max of 2Meg but the pages are 6Meg each (2 pages). I don't want to make them any smaller or else you may not be able to read the text. If you have an e-mail that i can send them too, that would work.

7- remove alternator belt. I hope you don't have pwr steering of AC, i don't know how that interfears with the removal of the main timing cover since i have never worked on a PS or AC 2g lude, if you do, you must remove the accessory belt and you might have to unbolt the ac compressor and Pwr steering pump, just look and see if it is in the way of the timing cover.

8- Now that the belt (or belts) are off you can take off the main crank pully. So remove the bolt. When you take the bolt off you will see that the pully is held in place by a little metal key. the pully just slides off and may take some working to get off. VERY IMPORTANT: as you slide off the pully keep track of the little metal key and DO NOT LOOSE IT. It may fall inside the timing cover when you slip off the pully, thats OK you can retreive it when the cover comes off. What you can do is rotate the crank pully with the wrachet so that the key is on top, that way it has less chance of falling somewhere when you slide off the pully.

9- get yourself some sort of tray and put the crank pully key and any bolts you have removed on to it and keep it out of the way, you don't want anything to go missing, especially the key!!!!

10- with a 10mm wrench or wrachet remove all of the bolts holding on the main timing cover. Put all bolts on your tray.

11- Ok, now get your jack and a small piece of ply wood or two by four. Place the jack under the oil pan with the wood so you don't dent or break anything. Put up the jack so that it is snug aginst the oil pan. You have to do this because we are going to remove one engine mount and you will need to support the motor.

12- Dissconnect the left side engine mount. It is held together by 3 bolts they are about 14mm if i remember correctly, one through the cassis and two through the motor. Take all three bolts out and take care to remember wher they go, the chassis bolt is a bit different, place them on your tray. OK, now that the bolts are out, slide the mount towards the chassis (away from the motor) towards you and leave it there, don't actually take it out, we just need it out of the way. If it is too tight to move, lower the jack that is supporting the engine to give you the space.

13- Take out the timing cover. It may be a bit of a bitch to wiggle out, you can lower or rais the motor with the jack to give you the space you need. Also there could be a couple of rubber seals that hinder things a bit. One round one that seals off the tentioner bolt and one rectangular one where the engine mount is. Just reaf on the cover so they slip over the tentioner nut and/or engine mount. Also find the pully key if you dropped it inside the cover while takeing off the pully.

OK so your %40 done, you should see the timing belt and where the failure occered. Most of the time the belt does not actually snap. What happens is the rubber teath on the belt can get totaly stripped off causing the belt to stop.

14 - losen the tentioner bolt with a 12mm wrench and unscrew it a bit, but dont take it out! You just want to relieve the tention so you can get the belt off.

15- take the belt off, it is quite tight in there so just work it off slowly. Clean up inside sice there is probably little bits of timing belt all over the place, make sure you clean it all real good.

16- OK, now since the belt snapped while the car was running your timing will be right out of whack!! So you have to position the crank gear and cam gear at top dead center. For the cam gear you should see an arrow. Try to turn the cam gear (this is very hard) so that the arrow is pointing up in line with the engine. Now for the crank pully, put back on the 17mm nut and turn the crank with the wrachet untill the keyway notch is pointing up right in line with the cam gear arrow. This must be accurate or else you car will run like shyt or not at all. So now inspect the the markings again and make sure they are in line.

17- OK now it's time to put on your new timing belt!! This can be a pain in the azz and can be very frustrating!! Start from the top and put the belt around the cam gear, making sure the teath in the belt are seated nicely in the gear, then go down making sure to keep the belt tight and place it around the crank gear. Now i must stress that it must be tight in between the two gears. The teath on the belt should fit perfectly, if not then make sure the timing marks (arrow and key way) are in line and rotate to correct. Now place the belt over the oil pump gear, this one will rotate freely so just rotate it for best tightfit. Now the hard part, you have to pry the timing belt over the tentioner. This will take some time, patience and some muscle. The tentioner is held on by the 12mm bolt, keep this in place to make sure the tentioner does not fall of its mount. There is a spring that keeps the tention and is a pain in the ass to put back on if it falls out. This all must be in place when pulling the timing belt over the tentioner. I find this works best by getting under the car with a flat head screw driver in hand. Take the screw driver and try to pry the tentioner over to give you enuf space to slip the belt over. This will no doupt take you a few goes, give you some nicks and scrapes and cause you to shout profanities (I know i fukin did!!).

18- Ok so now that the tming belt is on and your knucles are bluddy, you can get your 12mm wrench and tighten down the tentioner bolt.

19- Time for one last check, take your 17mm wrachet and rotate the motor in a counter clockwise direction untill the cam gear goes aound 360'. Line the cam gear arrow up in line with the motor and check to see if the crank gear is right in line with it. If it is Congratulations!!!! You just sucessfully replaced your timing belt. If not, your knuckles are gonna have to take more abuse because you will have to take the belt off, allign the timing marks and put the belt back on then rotate the motor again to see if you were sucsessful.

20- Clean up your main timing cover and the gasket that was on there. Place the gasket on to the cover and put back the timing cover to the correct position. I chucked out the two little seals for the tentioner bolt and motor mount because they were a pain in the ass to deal with. Put back all of the 10mm bolts. Place the keyway on to the crank gear and slide on the crank pully. Now get your helper to stand on the brake again while in 5th gear and so you can tighten the 17mm pully bolt down nice good and tight. Put back your belt(s) and top timing cover. Clean up the valve cover gasket with some degreaser as well as around the head and valve cover. Place the gasket into the valve cover and put back the cover and bolt her down. I like to use some high heat silicon on the valve cover seal, it makes for a leak free seal. Now reach down and allign the motor mount to the correct postion and put back the three bolts holding it together. You may have to minipulate engine hight with the jack so you can bolt it together.

Done!!!!!! I hope this all made sense and helped you on your way. Pheww :wink:

one of the mods might want to add this to the howto list but i am going to post it here for now.

KYB GR-2 Strut and 94-00 Integra Coilover install.

Well first off you have to go and order your struts and coilovers. I used KYB GR-2 struts and a set of generic sleeved coilovers and springs for a 1994-2000 Integra. Once all my parts had arrived at the store I brought them home and began work.

REAR:

For the rears you will have to mill out the coil over sleeve about 2mm larger diameter and you will also have to get out an angle grinder and grind the hexagonal looking shapes off of the strut body. I also took all the paint off the strut where the coil over sleeve will sit for a little extra clearance. Once the sleeve was milled and the strut had been ground down I used a little cop slip, antiseize compound and painted it on the strut where the sleeve would sit. I then slid the two together and put the spring on the assembly. I then jacked up the rear of the car, took off the rear wheels, and undid the upper and lower strut retaining bolts. Once the lower unit is loose then you will be able to drop the rear a-arm assembly lower and pull the existing strut out. A Haynes manual should help a lot with this procedure is you are not fully mechanically inclined. If you wanted to you could use the upper strut plate from your old setup, but I bought a new ones from Honda at a whopping 20 dollars Canadian each. If you want to use your old upper strut plates you will have to buy a spring compressor, compress your coil spring and then take off the strut plate. Install the upper rubber damper upside down on the coil and the install the upper strut plate. Install the whole new assembly back into the car and you are finished for the rear.

Front:

The fronts there is no machining or modifying needed. Install the sleeve body on the strut as shown in the instructions that comes with the coil over kit. Then one they are ready for the upper strut plate you will again have to jack up the car, take out the old struts, use a spring compressor and take off the strut plate, install everything on the new strut/coil over setup and put them back in the vehicle.

Height:

I have my fronts set all the way down on the sleeve and the rears I made a mark on the coil and turned them 3 times from the first time I saw the mark. Locked them in with the supplied keys and I was set.

This job can easily be done in an afternoon , the ride handling and road holding qualities are amazing. Once installed it will change the way you think of your prelude, and right then and there you know why import cars are the greatest… they go around corners, FAST….

The full document with images in place can be found at this link. docs.google.com/document/d/16KwrH1PtXLCeDQTAa3qCYunHZ6uYT81neaZ-Wp14io8/edit?usp=sharing

Ok gang. I decided to start a thread about what's needed, not needed, what can get pitched and what must stay as far as the vacuum spaghetti goes under the hood. The guinea pig is my 87 DX. All you Si guys, I'm not sure how much of this will apply to you. But I'm sure it'll at least help. Anyways, I'll update this as often as possible to keep you guys informed of my progress with the spaghetti removal.....

And remember, I'm not responsible for anyone screwin up their car by following what I did. And smog-test takers, you guys will probably just have to wonder how much this might help your car instead of actually doing it... LOL

All vacuum line numbers I refer to are how they are numbered from the factory (or at least as far as I know...all my line numbers correspond with the manuals I've seen anyways...).

First thing I did was ditch the EGR. Emissions crap. Unplug lines #4 and #5 coming from the black box of death (right side of engine bay on firewall) where they meet the metal lines on the engine. Plug off the metal lines. You can also open up the black box and remove the vacuum switches/solenoids that those lines went to, or just cut off the rubber lines where they go into the box. Then you can leave the EGR valve there if you want, or you can make a block-off plate to tidy it up a bit. Also you can remove the EGR tube going to (coming from) the exhaust manifold to the intake. A plug will have to be made for the exhaust manifold, and if you do the block-off plate you may need a plug made for the intake side as well.

6/1/08 -- I did some removal of goods in the black box of death. If you crack open the box you will find a myriad of vacuum switches, check valves, an air filter, etc. etc. At the bottom inside the box is a large aluminum double valve. That's for the EGR and can be taken out of the box and tossed. At this point you can also get rid of the vacuum switches and air filter that are connected to the aluminum valve assembly. Two of the vacuum switches have a single wire going to them. Chop the wire on each of the switches and yank them out. Then you can reassemble the box and reinstall.

Stuff from the black box...

i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa248/fullthrottle_man/Emissionsremoval006_640x480.jpg

Now, see the black box next to the upper timing cover? And the big hose going from it to the black box sitting on the intake? Get rid of all of it. Both black boxes and the associated large tubes. I kept the tube that runs from the box at the timing cover to the air cleaner assembly and plugged it off. The smaller lines just trim back and plug however you see fit that appeals to your eyes. The aluminum piece connected to the second black box (the one on the intake manifold) I haven't taken off yet so I don't know if there's any holes to plug from taking that piece off. But the large tube from that piece to the exhaust manifold can be removed also and both ends plugged. A plug at the intake-side of that tube may not be necessary, I'm not sure yet since I haven't taken that tube off as of yet.

6/1/08 -- You can also remove the white vacuum switch by the left side of the air cleaner assembly and plug the line going to the metal vacuum lines and also plug the other large line going to the air cleaner. Since the two air chamber boxes (the one on the intake and the one next to the upper timing cover) are gone, that vacuum switch is not needed either.

Stuff from the 2 black boxes on intake and next to timing cover...

i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa248/fullthrottle_man/Emissionsremoval008_640x480.jpg

Another thing you can toss in the garbage is the Anti-Afterburn Valve. Unplug the vacuum line from the AAB Valve to the metal vacuum line and plug the metal line. Then trim back the smaller lines, plug them off and toss the valve. Not needed for function of the carburetors. All it does is hold the throttle partially open when shifting.

I'll add more to this as I do them. I'll also try to get some pics posted so you guys can see exactly what I'm talking about and where. I'm only putting in the removal of stuff that doesn't adversely affect the performance/driveability of my own car. If it makes my car run like dog$&%t, then I hook it back up and consider it a needful thing to have on there...

6/1/08 -- Control box #2 located on the left strut tower...yank it off and throw it and the vacuum canisters connected to it (one below the power steering reservoir, the other is under the left headlight). Then you can plug off the lines at the metal end. You can also get rid of the little orange vacuum switch connected to it lower down on the strut tower. There's another vacuum switch with three vacuum lines on top of the strut tower. That one needs to stay, but the one vacuum line can be redone so it's just a single line--not split off to elsewhere.

Control box #2 and attatched stuff...

i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa248/fullthrottle_man/Emissionsremoval010_640x480.jpg

The vacuum line that needed to be redone...

i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa248/fullthrottle_man/Emissionsremoval011_640x480.jpg

The only good use for Autolite plugs per my past experiences...

i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa248/fullthrottle_man/Emissionsremoval012_640x480.jpg

Another couple things that can be rid of on our cars is Frequency Solenoid Valve A and Air Control Valve A. Both are located next to each other on the right side just behind the valve cover. The solenoid valve is the black round valve with clear top and green wire connector with 2 vacuum lines going to it (pretty good sized ones too). The Air Control Valve A is the white plastic valve that is connected to the solenoid valve. Both can be tossed and the resulting lines capped off...not needed...I'll try to get a pic of them and their location tomorrow for you guys!

Frequency Solenoid Valve A....

i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa248/fullthrottle_man/Emissionsremoval013.jpg

Air Control Valve A....

i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa248/fullthrottle_man/Emissionsremoval014.jpg

And the two hooked together by the factory vacuum lines as they sit behind the valve cover on the right side.....

i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa248/fullthrottle_man/Emissionsremoval015.jpg

It's raining so I haven't gotten the pic of where exactly they sit under the hood....

2ndGenGuy said:

You can get rid of the canister, but you'll be smelling gas in your car if you do. I found that one out the hard way. It basically collects the fuel vapors from the tank and burns them as you're driving.

I got rid of the canister also, but I haven't had any problems of smelling gas at all since then. I left the line going to the firewall from the canister open for a vent for the tank. So far, so good! I also did a little reworking of the lines remaining. Lines #23, 24, and 25 (the 3 that went to the valve on the left strut tower) I originally capped off separately. Now, I've hooked the three together with a t-fitting and it's running like a champ! So as of now, I've basically eliminated the entire black box and it's contents, the black vacuum line box on the left strut tower, the valve there also, the black air boxes (on the intake and in front of the upper timing cover), the aluminum valve for the black air boxes, and finally got around to cutting and capping the two metal tubes from the exhaust manifold. Hopefully tomorrow it won't be raining for the first time in weeks so I can get some pics!

|3last

Well i've had this JDM maplight for a while now, it came with a wiring harness. The harness was pretty beat up, but looks like factory. I've been under the dash multiple times looking for any type of fitting, or accessory place to put this fitting. Was Never able to find anything that fit. The Harness has matching male female parts seperated by about 6 inches of cable, as to go in-between an existing connection.

The Harness also has a fuse built in, with some sort of clipping piece (to possibly mount to somewhere under the dash?). I will try and get some pics up here shortly to help. But if anyone has any expirience with this, i would appreciate the help.

-I'm thinking about lower the entire lower dash and driver side kick panels etc, to try and locate the proper place. The cable is only long enough to go from the maplight to about the steering wheel (under the dash).

* I know that i can wire the maplight to the dome light, i have seen that. Just want to get this harness to fit...if it's even factory.

TimO

TimO to the rescue. i happen to have the same maplight and yes the wire harness is factory. on the steering wheel side of the fuse box, on the end is a spot for extra fuses to be mounted. its not overly important to mount the fuse. the two spade terminal conectors are you power in and ten out for other accessories. in the fuse box above the line of fuses you will find a couple(4 i think) empty locations with either one or two male spade terminals in them. use a test light or multi meter to find the single one that has 12v power with the key off. it should be closer to the kick panel side of the fuse box. plug the femal spade conector of your maplight harness into this spot and your good to go. the other male conector on the maplight harness is just a power take off so you could plug in fog lights or whatever, bumper pole even or power antenna.

hope this helps

|3last

Helped big time!!!

I was looking right there, but not high enough. They are way up there!!! I was like, that's where my extra fuses and fuse holder go!..lol. But yeah they are behind the big wire loom, above the extra fuse holder.

1 thing though. There are 4 sockets up there, 1 2 spade, and 3 1 spade sockets. My harness fit into the one spade sockets...these socket are labeled 1,2,3.

-Instead of using a multimeter, i just plugged the light in. in socket 1, and 2 i only got power with key turned. In socket 3 i got absolutely nothing. I wanted constant ON, but oh well...any help?

Little Write up i did for 3Geez guy's you might want to post it here cheers.

Re: P & P Intake Manifold?

Theres a magazine called practical performance car they did a excellent 5 issue spread on headwork if you can order it worth getting, if not any fo the reputable engine building books on flowing heads for 4 pots is worth getting and reading.

Here is what i would do (bearing in mind i have 200bhp N/A tuned engines)

1. Don't increase size of ports.

2. Most of the increase in flow is achieved by making the air/fuel go round the valve stem and seat faster the port has very little if next to no effect

3. None of the ports need polishing not even the chamber they all get covered in Coke and soot no matter how highly polished they are, they should just be smooth to the touch but their are some exceptions.

Part 1. Fuel injected direct port injection inlet manifold and all the inlet port before the injector should be super smooth as no fuel mixing occurs before injector air flow needs to be the best it can, this also means flowing and machining parts of the Throttle body, plenum, and runners the inlet manifold that CKE has is a pretty good choice nicely made with excellent trumpet shaped runners.

Part 2. If Injectors are further up the inlet manifold or are placed on the trumpets on some ITB's and with using Performance carbs, the finish of the inlet manifold from carb into port or injector into port should be of a slightly more rougher feel, although machined edges and cast defects should be removed and blended into the walls and throat of ports. You can start of with a rough fininsh at the end nearest the injector carb with it gradually becoming a bit smoother towards the valve seat or you can just have a relatively rough finish all round upto to you makes little difference. But all parts and walls should be super smooth before the carb or injector still.

A rough finish would look similar to running 500-800 Grit paper on a sheet of Ally

A smooth finish would be like running 1000-1500 Grit paper on a sheet of Ally

4. Inlet and manifolds should be matched perfectly if possible only way to do this is to flow it with the inlet manifold attached this can normally only be done if your using Weber DCOE's or ITB's, if it cannot be matched if your using plenum the inlet port outer edge should be rounded of like a trumpet or bellmouth so that it covers the whole of the diameter of the inlet port manifold, exhaust headers should have the header ports larger than the diameter of the exhaust head ports. The idea is to remove any flat 90 degree edges that may hinder airflow, removing them is essential even if it's is just .5mm or 1mm out should be completely blended in or rounded off so it has minimal impact.

Single Throttle Bodies can also be tweeked, the intake that joins onto the ducting can be smoothed out, polished, and the edge knife edges so that there is no lip to when the Throttle body joins onto the piping of your CAI tubing, the butterfly can also be knife edged to help increase airflow past it, and the round head screws in the butterfly spindle can be pulled out and countersunk screws fitted in and ground flush with the spindle to help increase airflow past the butterfly and spindle also, if your feeling really extreme you could cust half the spindle off but only do this if the spindle is really chunky and well built. Matching the TB to the Plenum also and just making sure that the inside of the port into the plenum is nice and smooth also and that the gasket doesn't stick into the air way to hinder flow. Removing any heated pipes to the TB and inlet manifold will help keep temps down and a heat proof inlet manifold gasket will help keep things even cooler, only good for summer if your county gets very cold then you will have to leave it as stock.

On carbs and ITB's make sure that they are matched to the inlet manifold again the inlet manifold that meets the carbed end can be trumpet shaped or bell mouthed or blended in perfectly depends howmuch metal you can remove and whether your going for torque or BHP narrow ports more air velocity more torque bigger ports lower torque more revs and top end BHP.

5. Working on the valve throat and seat area has the most gains as the machined edges are normally the worst and most heads have only one seat or a poorly cut 3 angle seat.

Remove the machined edges by blending them into the throat walls, no more is needed than to just make it smooth curve don't go making it bigger think this will help you want to keep the size of the throat and the area around this as small as possible.

Next concentrate on the area around the valve guide here on A20 nothing to worry about as the guide doesn't stick out the port roof although the roof has nothing in front of the guide which doesn't help, you can have it welded or leave it as it is welding will only gain you maybe 5-10bhp and you'd have to be running some serious mods to see the gains something you would do if you were building an all out race motor.

Next have 3-5 angle seats cut and have the valves matched to the seats with back cuts done too, you can leave it as it is or take it couple of steps further by smoothing of the edges caused by the seat cuttings on both head and valve, then theres also the finish of the valve super smooth polished or swirl effect which can be done on lathe with a rough fininsh grinding stone tired both seem about the same, i think with a direct port Injection system go with rough finish on a carbed or ITB setup go with super smooth finish.

Exhaust Port is different though, the guide ramp and guide protrude badly into the port throat best mods to do is to completely remove the guide and the ramp that stocks out into the port or the race head way would be to turn the ramp and the guide into an aerodynamic fin that helps split the exhuast gas more smoothly around the valve stem the latter of the two takes a lot of time, skill and some precision dremel bits that cost a fair amount again this would only be done on a race head or someone after that last 5bhp that can be squeezed out.

6. Combustion Chambers should be very smooth finish and the valves should be given as much room to breathe as possible, so i tend to match the chamber to the bores to open them out a bit helps with ignition timing and preventing detonation. Then i makes sure that all the valve seats that have been cut are flush with the chamber roof any kind of edge will hinder airflow going in and out of valve. This can be done by using an old valve and useing some tiny dremel bits to go around the vlave using it as a guide to blend in the edges to the roof.

7. When all the work is completed and you've finished the chambers have the head skimmed and then thoroughly cleaned by workshop to remove all the metal shavings in the head adn to increase CR ratio and remove any damage incurred by you working on the chamber yes the dremel will occasionally get the better of your grip but that's why you do this bit last!!

8. If your still after more then it's time to do some custom work. The best way to really improve your A20 is to put bigger valves in.

You can do this by re-using old exhaust valves and having them machined own to 33mm and reeming out the old inlet guides to same size as exhaust vlave guides and then having 4 custom exhaust valves madeup, or you can have for the ultimate 12 new race stainless steel or titanium valves made up which will have narrower stems which will give you more flow again. Although stainless is tougher and heavier titanium is only for race use or mad people with tons of cash to burn.

9. Valvetrain can handle the rpms but the springs are the weak link in the A20, swap the platforms and retainers for all A18 or ET prelude ones okay upto 285 degree cams with 10mm lift or the better alternative is to use Exhaust valve springs and retainers all round from Prelude if your using exhaust valves all round after a big valve conversion. If you are using custom valves with narrower stems then ET1 2G accord heads have double valve springs and platforms for stock size valves, which can be modded to be stronger by shimming the springs or by using stronger springs from aftermarket source.

10. If your building that race head for the ultimate then you would need to build up a flowbench and make sure that all the ports are balanced so that they all flow the same numbers, also usefull for the more intelligent of us who like dabbling with figures who can then work out all kinds of equations to get the CR ratio right and work out the supposed Bhp and torque that is should generate.

Hope this is usefull and gives some people an idea of what they need to do to Flow a head on a A20. A18/ET/ET1 are a little different but mostly the same principles. If your still not sure i'm allways available on e-mail as most of you know there's at least 10 people i'm currently helping advise on engines and they all appreciate the info and feedback they get. There is a really good secret to headwork and that is you ahve to be a perfectionist!! Can mean 10-20bhp difference from one engine built to another!! People who tend to be really good at Headwork tend to be more on the Arty side of things good with making things with their hands, modellers, painters, DIY people, woodworkers, if your none of the above stay well clear cause a Bull in a China shop is gonna end up in a whole heap of trouble!!

Complete document here. docs.google.com/document/d/10oLX9K1pRMNsLZJFz3fjpyXHrwXYGBdkBuXivl7XC48/edit?usp=sharing

I spotted a thread in the 4th gen area with a similar question to my recent one about the speed sensor, and in the thread was this link..

http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1517004&page=1

I had already purchased a rack rebuild kit, so I thought instead of just resealing the rack & looping the lines, I would give this a try. The main objective here is to remove the innards of the valve control body, and the piston seal. The rack will then become free moving, instead of hydraulically controlled. Allow yourself an afternoon for this project. If you are familiar with steering boxes, you could probably go from start to finish in an hour or two. If not, then double that. Yeah, I know I did this on top of two TV dinner stands....I'm ghetto.

Remove the two rubber mounts. Remove the hose linking the two boots. Just twist & pull.

Remove the two boot clamps and pull the boots back. Watch out for escaping fluid. Remove the tie-rods from the rack. You will see a washer with two bent sides. I used a hammer and a stubby screwdriver to bend the washers straight enough to get a bite with a vise grip and squeeze them flat again. I have never done this before, and have limited tools & resources, so if there is an easier or better way to do this, please let me know. Use an open ended or adjustable wrench to loosen the rod, and twist it out. Repeat for other side.

Remove the two 10mm bolts on the valve control and pry it from the rest of the assembly. Remove the two 10mm bolts from the valve cap and remove the cap.

Slide the roller pin out of the control valve and 'dump' the contents of each hole. Pry the bottom of the control housing off. I used a tiny drill bit to apply force to the little brass piece and 'pull' it up until there was enough exposed to grab it with a plier. Poke a drill bit or other small tool through to pop out the last little blue plastic piece. Reassemble your gutless valve body.

This should be everything...the only things going back in are the misshapen o-rings. (I of course used the new ones)

Moving on to the rack. I did not have a large enough tool to fit the rack locknut, but I vise gripped it and it was not difficult at all to loosen. Remove it, then remove the rack guide screw with a 14mm socket or wrench. Remove the rack guide with your fingers or whatever....I used some small snap ring pliers.

Remove the 4 10mm pinion cover bolts. Slide the cover off the pinion. Remove the large snaprings from the ends end of the pinion. Slide the pinion and lower bearing out of the rack.

(see those two o rings? keep or replace them, but take out the white plastic bits [not shown] in the holes. )

Remove the 4 10mm cylinder bolts. Remove the cylinder housing. Remove the cylinder spring & rack bushing. Pull the piston & housing out of the gearbox. Remove the outer & inner rings from the piston.

No more pics, because it started getting real greasy here. Liberally grease everything with some quality grease and begin reassembly.

I am on my way to the hardware store to find something to plug the p/s holes in the valve control, then on my way to work. I'll add my finishing touches after work.

Edit:

I was totally unable to find any hardware to fill the power steering lines. I ended up just using the existing lines and just cutting each one down to about an inch and capping them with some vacuum line plugs. I've had the rack in since Friday, and so far everything is fine. The feel of it is marginally better than the afunctional rack that was previously there. I am glad I will never have to deal with a leaky ps system again. Only people who are hardcore about simplifying their systems and don't care about power steering, or hardcore racers who think every pound counts should consider this project. Everybody else should just consider repairing their p/s to normal. I have always thought that power steering was overrated on small cars like ours, and I enjoyed the hell out of ripping all those lines out.

This writeup is for an A20 engine but should be similar for the carbureted engine.

Removal

This procedure leaves the engine in situ and therefore I found the most difficult part to be lifting the gearbox back onto the clutch/engine. This is also based on using a FULL clutch kit.

Start by removing the battery & battery tray

Intake pipes

Looking down at the linkages you will be able to see a gap between the rear crossmember and gearbox just wide enough to use a 12mm socket to undo the main gear linkage arm, leave the bolt in because it's easier to remove by hand from underneath. (Note. bushes fall out when linkages are removed)

remove the Wheels & place the car on axle stands

upper & lower mounts from gearbox

Starter motor

Drain gearbox oil

Undo speedo cable

Undo clutch cable

undo reverse light switch

undo ground strap

undo clips on inner cv boots

undo centre axle bearing bolts/block x3

Working in the wheelarches undo the damper pinch bolt using 14mm

undo the top camber adjustment nuts using 17mm

undo the bolts securing the brake rubber pipe/ALB wire to the wishbone (upright) using 10mm

push down on the disc using your bodyweight to unfasten the damper from the fork and take note of the axle coming out of the inner cv because the 3 bearings drop out

Remove the centre shaft from the gearbox

Working underneath the car undo the gear linkage support arm using 10mm

undo the engine bed using 14mm

undo the front gearbox to block mount

undo gearbox bolts and lower it to the ground in stages on wooden blocks do this to make life easier on your back and note that when it is being lowered it has a tendancy to turn (top to the left) and also rests on the tiebar unless carefully guided

undo clutch pressure plate bolts with a star 10mm socket/spanner

remove clutch friction plate

Carefully remove spring arms from release bearing

Inspect shaft the bearing sits on if severely worn it must be renewed (rare)

Inspect Clutch for purpose of failure

Inspect flywheel contact surface

Using provided grease, apply to the shaft the bearing sits on

Replacement

Replace release bearing this can be aided by using the clutch cable lever and a flat screwdriver to gain leverage

offer up clutch plate to the flywheel noting flywheel side marked on the clutch

Replace pressure plate and hand tighten bolts

Align clutch using clutch aligner or old input shaft or as i did using a socket extension that fitted the recess in the flywheel

Note at this point if you havent got the clutch centred properly the gearbox will NOT go back on and your back will tell you about it later...

It's good to have a passer by/assistant at this point.

While you lift the gearbox to a height to match the level of the engine have the assistant push a jack in underneath

offer up the gearbox noting clearance of tiebar

Insert all the gearbox bolts & THEN tighten

connect mounts

connect front gearbox to block mount

refit centre axle

refit centre axle bearing to the block bolts x3

working under the wheelarch

regrease & refit axles

refit damper pinch bolt using 14mm

refit camber nuts using 17mm

refit rubber brake pipe/ALB clamps to wishbone(upright) using 10mm

refit wheels

working underneath the car

refit engine bed

refit gearlinkage support arm using 10mm

place bolt through gearlinkage arm(tighten from above using 12mm) also re-inserting bushes

Working from above

Replace starter motor

battery tray & battery

speedo cable

Clutch cable (leave 1 inch of free play)

connect reverse lights switch

ground strap

Refill gearbox oil

replace intake pipes

Close hood

Go for a pint... Idea

complete document here. docs.google.com/document/d/1TZ-OpUF688GLvUI_dyTVBrNAFXE-Iq2acHAvDhyBrHQ/edit?usp=sharing

Smeado:

ok so after some talk on PP a few months back about the different heads and started thinking that I'm not getting near the flow with an A18 head that i could with a A20. after finding some nice pictures from AMERICAN HEADS" website and with a little photoshop magic i did some comparison of the two.

as you can see there is way bigger openings on the 20 and there is a MUCH more direct route for the air. i kinda feel like the 18 is not much more than a 8 valve engine. more proof of this is anybody who has pulled their head apart and noticed that the valve on the far side of the port is always WAY more gummed up than the closer one. good indication that it just doesn't get the airflow.

far valve on left (on my PACEO head and 45 weber DCOEs after 3000 miles)

far valve on right (on my stock head and 40 SK DCOEs after ~30000 miles)

master jedi rich i think is fully aware of this as he is using a 20 head on his big valve conversion with custom weber manifold...

but there are all kinds of questions this arises in my head. like would it be worth it to switch my heads? of course there is a compression difference between the two heads too i think. Hmmmm what about the FI and carb difference? I could do an ITB with MegaSquirt conversion like cygnus? but i would have to give up my pretty pretty webers I could do a custom manifold like rich too... Hmmmm.

anybody else have and input or things I'm not thinking about on these two heads? I started this thread as a discussion just to get some discussion going on the heads.

cheers Smeado

Rjudgey:

Hmmm well as you all know i've pretty much tried every concievable combination of heads and blocks. And as much as i love the A18 i think with it's odd inlet port design it is the weaker of the lot between A18, ET1, and A20, now what could be interesting is that with the right amount of headwork, and also a custom cam profile to suit the A18 could be a real dark horse when it comes to torque, with long intake runners, and a cam custom configured like Colt cams staggered lobes but with the lobes matched to the ports, e.g. the valve with the longest distance to travel across the port should get more lift and duration the one with the shortest distance should get the smallest lift and duration, this would give you one hell of a wicked swirl entering the chamber!! Combined with a high CR ratio could give interesting results!! Now i'm running an ET/A18 in my red car and so far performance from this stock low mileage engine has been great what small tweeks i have done has lead to quite considerable bhp and more amazingly torque increases so it does suggest it is a torque monster rather than a high revving bhp killer!! So depending on whether you want better gas mileage, better pull from low revs a different engine will suit the application. As i'm going all out for power i chose the A20 head as yes it does have the port spacing and size to suit a 250bhp+ engine but lacks the valves as standard, but i also still feel after trying an ET1 2G accord head (for those who don't know the diff between ET/A18 and ET1) this head has much smaller ports like the A18 but with them centrally placed infront of the valves, this has the smaller chambers of the 1.8 block so when mated with a 2.0 pistons gives you really high CR ratio when used with A20A3/4 pistons around 10.5:1 roughly depending on what you do to the chambers i typically match them up a little and flow the chambers so my previous engine was more like 9.5:1 but this was due to using lower CR pistons from A20A1 as well so 10:1 with headwork is achievable, i believe the increase in flow from machining the chambers is worth the extra gain in Bhp versus the loss in CR ratio, worse case scenario you could shave the head 1mm to bring this back up!!, Combined with big valves i still think from running an A20 big valve head this could still have the best combination for money for easy power and high revs. I like the A20 though and when i'm able to get a high compression block going i easily feel that the power increases i've lost over the ET1 from the drop in CR ratio will easily be made up, i'm also bottlenecking the engine from having the worlds shittiest custom exhaust on there, as this is soon to come off and get replaced by something that is truly spectacular watch this space for some dyno results which should see a spectacular jump in torque, bhp and higher revs!! (Well hopefully or I'm going B20A or Turbo lol!!) But yeah all teh R&D i've done should see the current low compression A20 (8.5:1) achieve 190-200bhp with hopefully around 145-150lbft torque maybe more we'll see!! Then it's time to up the compression, get more serious on the valves and seat designs I'm using and see what we can really get!! Hoping for something along the lines of 235-250bhp and i would be really happy but again going to need some custom stuff done to achieve this one of which will be forged pistons to my own spec to get to 11.5:1 CR ratio, then some custom valves with slimmer waists, then on top of that custom cam grind which will need about 290 degrees duration increase in lift to 11.5mm on inlets and 295 degrees duration and 12.5mm lift on exhaust and that should make it really sing expected power range should be between 5k and 9k rpm might try a more conservative cam before but we'll see using a 285 degree at the moment but only 10mm lift all round which is really strangling the engine with the big valves i'm using so maybe something like a 275 or 280 with 11.5mm lift all round would work well too and still be streetable.

So as they say watch this space!! At the moment i'm just glad the exhaust is fixed and so far hanging on I have a feeling that the header was pulled out and has damaged the threads on the head studs so may have to take it off and have helicoiled the header had moved about 1mm away from the head when it collided with the folded pillar didnt notice at the time only when i finally got it back fixed and back on started it up and was still blowing really loud and found the problem with the header. As the new one is much lighter and will be properly fitted might get away with loctite thread lock in them we'll see!!.

Mine's a 87 Si.

1 Jack up front some and support with jack stands.

2 Drain coolant. Plug on drivers side. You don't have to take the plug all the way out as there is a groove in it for the coolant to run out, and it's not recomended as I cross threaded the plastic plug when I put it back in.

3 Unplug two fans and another connection near the bottum radiator hose.

4 Undo the top and bottum radiator hoses.

5 Unbolt two fans and the radiator. All are 10mm wrench size. Keep the bolts in a tin can as they have a way of getting lost.

6 Remove battery, battery tray, and coolant overflow bottle. This is necessary to get the fans and radiator out. Mine was full of white battery acid including under the battery tray, The whole area needed cleaning and painting. Make a paste of Baking Soda and water in a container to remove battery acid and brush it on.

7 Now you can get the fans and radiator out. I took the radiator out by myself but a friend would be a help to avoid damaging the fins.

I took my radiator to a radiator repair shop as it leaked where the bottum outlet went into the tank. He soldered it up. $25.

Right then i got bored at the weekend and thought i'd tinker with my carbs to see if i can squeeze any more power out of them. On my car it's certainly made a difference but unless your running air induction mods, exhaust mods, and have a healthy engine not sure if you'll notice any go.

Well as we all know these are Bike carbs, now as Honda make bikes i thought be worth looking at some bike websites for mods on the bike that these carbs came on, now most are from 78-89 had these carbs, everything from 750cc honda engines to 1100 straight siz beast called the CBX1100 which had 6 of them bolted on!! Now with the amount of use and type of bikes these are on someone must have attempted tuning them up a bit, well it turns out that no one really has apart from bit of re jetting and simple stuff. So i've taken on of my many spare pairs and thought well i'm going to strip these buggers down and see what i can do!!!

First off you need to improve the air into them either by reworking the CAI and air box that comes with your car or doing the open air box mod. I also removed the metal screens in front the carb as this seriously disrupts and blocks air flow in. I also removed the metal shield in front of the air intake on the air box too as this seriously restricts air flow in, i dumped the air filter and just running with the cold air feed into the airbox with the removed shield and the removed screens, now you can cut up a piece of foam and stick it to the inside of the hole at the front headlight to reduce dirst and oil it as well, i've also disengaged the hot air feed to stop it pulling got air into the engine but might be worth keeping that on if you get cold in the winter.

Now the way these things work is they have a needle that rises as the revs pickup due to vacuum pressure inside the carb. Now the needles are removable from taking out the polished round tops a little screw holds the needle in so undo and the screw, needle and a spring comes out, now with the needle being tapered all you have to do to increase fuel is to move the needle further up, so you can do this by adding washers to the inside of the needle, now i've managed to adjust this using little ally washers from Radio control car parts which you should be able to get from a good model shop they are in .5 1 and 2mm sizes i've managed to go upto max of 2mm but this maybe too much suggest you start of conservatively. .5mm and 1mm you need to put the spring back in 2mm there is no room and is best left out. When you screw the needle back in just make sure the needle is nice and central and not off centre you can bend it around a bit. I've increase mine to 1.5mm higher and seems to be working well. The other end of the needle is the main jet this is measured in mm as well stock on U.K. model is 180 which is 1.8mm now most bikes are running 105 because the engines are smaller and they have 4 carbs not 2. So i've pulled out a set of jets and i'm having these redrilled you can buy these of the shelf from Keihin as they are quite common type they go upto over 2mm. I'm trying mine at 1.9mm to start of with maybe 2mm possibly. Now thats sorted out you need to look at ways of increasing air flow in.

So i was looking inside the carbs and there are large screws that hold the butterfly's in the carbs on the secondaries and primaries and the spindles themselves are pretty damn huge too.

So first step i thought find out the screw thread type standard metric M3 and M4 type the M3 is on the secondary butterflys at the entrance and the M4 are on the main butterfly. now i've used countersunk screws for these are with a bit of grinding witha 45 degree pointed stone on a dremel you can usually get countersunk screws pretty damn flat and not obstructing the air ways at all, the M3's in the secondaries worked perfect i chose the shortest ones they did and didn't even have to grind the ends off to go flush against the shaft. Had to use a washer on each to grip the slighlty bigger holes i had to make on the butterfly but it was near to flat as you could get. U need to make the holes bigger slighlty and the edge needs to be ground at an angle to get best fitment.

The mains i've not yet done but same thing applies, you need to grind into the shaft a bigger hole which has a nice 45 degree angle round it for the new countersunk screw to fit into and when it's in you then work out howmuch you need to cut or grind of the end to get it flat in the shaft. You may need to grind a bit of the top of the screw for minimising the profile as much as possible. But you get the general idea reducing the size of the parts sitting inside the carb throat gives you an increase in air flow in which you can then add extra fuel to which will give you a bigger bang resulting in more power for you. Now if you wanted to go more extreme you could remove the shaft and cut it in half and use just screws going through the butterfly to hold it down, now this is a lot more hard work to do and will involve the carbs being completely stripped down. Now you could attempt to do this inside the carb by grinding it down in size but you risk damaging the inside of the carb is your hand isn't steady and unless you block up all the holes with tape and thoroughly clean out the carb afterwards off all the bits of metal dust from griding which will seriously damage your carb if you don't do a thorough job.

But there you go some carb tweaking ideas for you to play with, next up i want to see just howmuch power you can get from stock carbs by bolting a my big valve conversion onto a 2.0l block with higher CR ratio going to try and dyno what i have soon and then hopefully after a while i'll have some spare time to build up a new block with high compression pistons etc.etc. and see if we can get these babies upto 150bhp!!! It's pretty nippy as it is guessing it's around 130-135bhp but really not sure does 1/4 in a smidge over 16 seconds so is definately more power than stock. And revs gamely to 7k rpm although most power is between 4-6.5k rpm. Might try a mild cam and see how it reacts to that.

Don't forget you may need to alter the idling mixture screws as well to compensate a little just an extra turn or 2 out from stock position of if you screw them all the way in turn they out to around 3.5-4 turns i think you can go max 5.5-6 before they risk falling out!!!!

So thats it for now untill i find out some more mods that we can try i'll update you with how well the bigger jets work out these are a bitch to change as they sit in the bottom of the carb so i need to take the damn things off the manifold and try to lift up enough to get underneath not to mention end up with fuel pissing everywhere.

P.S. use thread lock on the screws going into the butterfly's don't want any of them coming out and being sucked into the engine!!!

Honda gear ratios

You can use the gen2 prelude (84-87) transmission on your Accord

It has a more performance oriented gear ratio (the higher the number, the shorter the gear)

However, if you use the transmission from a 1.8L engine, you will need to change the flyhweel, pressure plate and the clutch since they are smaller. If you're affraid about the clutch not being strong enough, replace it with a performance clutch and it will hold more than you need to. The 1.8L flywheel is also lighter.

'85 Lude (carb):

1- 3.181

2- 1.944

3- 1.250

4- 0.933

5- 0.757

FD 4.071 (86-87 carb FD is 3.875)

Si Lude:

1- 3.181

2- 1.842

3- 1.250

4- 0.937

5- 0.771

FD 4.066

88 LXi:

1- 3.181

2- 1.842

3- 1.208

4- 0.878

5- 0.694

FD 4.066 (including all autos)

carb manual FD is 3.866

There is some guy on the www.3geez.com forums that is using a 1st generation Integra transmission on a 2nd gen Prelude bellhousing on an A20 motor in his car. That sounds like it's probably the best swap if you're looking for better acceleration.

Integra Gear Ratios:

1st: 3.18:1

2nd: 1.94:1

3rd: 1.37:1 1.34:1

4th: 1.03:1 1.03:1 Corrected ratios

5th: 0.85:1 0.87:1

FDR: 4.21:1

Diff integra diff 4.06

Diff orig 4.07

Official 3rd Gen Accord 1st Gen Integra Hybrid Transmission How-To.

Parts List:

3rd gen Accord or post `86 2nd gen Prelude transmission bell housing. Si for a 2.0L style flywheel, or DX for a 1.8L style.

1st gen Integra (86-89) transmission

Optional:

Rebuild kit

Accord 5th gear assembly

Phantom Grip limited slip conversion

I am going to assume that you have already removed the transmission from your car, your car was originally equipped with a 5speed, you have a haynes manual or other guide to help with the actual disassembly and reassebmly of the transmission, and you know how to reinstall the transmission. If not take a look at the other howto's.

Step 1. Clean you parts. Give both of your transmissions a quick cleaning to get all of the loose grease and crap off. They don’t need to be spotless, but you don’t want any of the crap to fall into the case when you reassemble the transmission.

Step 2. Disassemble the Accord transmission. Start with this transmission first, since you will only be using the bell housing a mistake here will be less costly. Its best to have a Haynes manual in front of you for this, they give good detailed instructions with pictures. Place all the parts off to the side where they won’t be confused with the Integra parts. Take the transmission completely apart (you don’t have to worry about removing the shift rod, but it makes cleaning easier).

Step 3. Disassemble the Integra transmission. It’s the same as the Accords, remember how the Accord transmission came apart and try to avoid any mistakes you made last time. Make note of how everything sat so you can put it back together. Parts, especially ones on the shafts, can’t be placed back in upside down.

Step 4. Inspect your parts. Take a look at all the parts you plan to use, make sure that they don’t show signs of excessive wear etc. It’s best to have someone with experience look at the parts. The Accord and Integra syncros are interchangeable.

Step 5. Clean your parts again. Clean out the inside of the case and all of the gears. Get all the metal shavings off the magnet, all the crap out of all the crevices, etc. Make sure that no crap has gotten into the gears, their bearings, or syncros. If you do remove the gears from the shafts make sure to remember exactly how they go back together, things won’t work right if they are upside down (make special note of the slider on the 3rd-4th syncro).

Step 6. Optional, install the phantom grip. If you plan on ever using a phantom grip or any other lsd, now is the time to install it else you’ll have to go through this again.

Step 7. Reassembling the transmission. If you have a rebuild kit use it. The bearings are pretty beefy and were still good even in my ‘85 transmission, but new ones give piece of mind. It goes back together the same way it came apart. Here’s a list of the parts you want to use.

Bell housing and shifting mechanism, Accord

Differential and ring gear, Integra

Main and counter shafts, Integra

Shift forks can come from either trans

Assemble the transmission to the point that you are ready to put the case on.

Step 8. Double-check your work. Look over everything. Make sure that all the gears line up. Make sure that when all the sliders are sitting in neutral that they are all at even heights where they meet the selector. Have someone one else with experience look at it too just to be sure. There is nothing like putting it all back in the car and then finding out you have no 4th gear or something else awry.

Step 9. Finish assembling the case. Make sure it’s free of oil and run a bead of rtv silicon around the mating surface of the case, smoothing it out with your finger. Place the transmission in 3rd gear (pull the shift rod strait out), this little trick makes it a whole lot easier to put the case back on. Slide the case over all the rods, don’t force it, just wiggle it around until it slides down into place. You should be able to use either the Accord or Integra case. I didn’t try the Accords, but the 85 Prelude case doesn’t work. Its best to use the Integra case though, as funstick mentioned when he saw it the oil holes are huge. It should help keep 5th gear alive. Put a few of the bolts in to hold the case down.

Step 10. More double-checking. Place the trans in every gear. Looking at the trans from the back turn the rod counter clockwise and pull it out for first, counter clockwise and push in for second, pull out strait for 3rd, push in strait for 4th, clockwise and pull out for 5th, and clockwise and push in for reverse. Make sure it goes into every gear. It will be hard to move the shaft esp. for reverse. Turn the input in every gear to make sure that every gear engages and turns, except 5th because you haven’t installed that one yet.

Step 11. Final assembly. Put the rest of the case bolts in and tighten them good (22 ft-lbs). Replace 5th gear. You can use either the Accord or the Integra 5th gear. I recommend the Accord 5th for cars that see a lot highway driving. Replace the nuts and torque them to 65ft-lbs. Don’t forget that the main shaft is reverse threaded, and make sure to lock each into the groove with a punch. Check one more time to be sure that 5th gear engages. Spread rtv around the mating surface and bolt on the end cover.

Cross refrence sheet

86 prelude 87 accord 87 integra

Carbed DX LX-i

Forks

1-2 shift fork 24221-PC8-920 24221-PC8-920 24221-PC8-920

3-4 shift fork 24211-PC8-J00 24211-PC8-J00 24211-PC8-J00

5th shift fork 24201-PB6-910 24201-PB6-910 24201-PB6-910

5th fork shaft 24271-PC8-930 24271-PC8-930 not listed

Differential

diff bearing 91005-PC9-008 91005-PC9-008 91005-PC9-008

diff houseing 41310-PC8-921 41310-PC8-621 41310-PG9-600

diff side gear 41221-PC8-912 41221-PC8-040 41221-PC8-040

diff pinion 41341-PC8-030 41221-PC8-030 not listed

pinion shaft 41321-P21-A00 41321-P21-A00 41321-P21-A00

Counter Shaft

shaft 23220-PC8-662 23220-PC8-671 23220-PG9-600

needle bearing 91101-PC8-J01 91101-PC8-J01 91101-PC8-J01

ball bearing 91004-PC8-J01 91004-PC8-J01 91004-PC8-J01

second bearing 91106-689-008 91106-689-008 91106-689-008

first bearing 91105-PB6-008 91105-PB6-008 91105-PB6-008

first gear 23421-PB6-010 23421-PB6-010 23421-PB6-010

second gear 23432-PC8-325 23432-PC8-J20 23432-PG9-305

third gear 23471-PC8-910 23471-PC8-J21 23471-PG9-600

fourth gear 23481-PC8-000 23481-PC8-J21 23481-PG9-600

fifth gear 23461-PC8-960 23461-PC8-J21 23461-PG9-600

3rd 4th spacer 23917-PB6-000 23917-PB6-000 23917-PB6-000

Main shaft

shaft 23211-PC8-962 23211-PC8-J21 23211-PG9-010

ball bearing 91002-PC8-J02 91002-PC8-J02 91002-PC8-J02

needle bearing 91103-PC8-018 91103-PC8-J01 91103-PC8-J01

third bearing 91104-634-008 91104-634-008 91104-634-008

fourth bearing 91104-634-008 91104-634-008 91104-634-008

fifth bearing 91104-634-008 91104-634-008 91104-634-008

third gear 23442-PC8-315 23442-PC8-J20 23442-PG9-305

fourth gear 23451-PC8-000 23451-PC8-J21 23451-PG9-600

fifth gear 23581-PC8-960 23581-PC8-J21 23581-PG9-600

Reverse

idler gear 23540-PC8-J01 23540-PC8-J01 23540-PC8-J01

23540-PC8-000 (2 parts listed for lude)

shaft 23261-PC8-000 23261-PC8-000 23261-PC8-000

Personal notes:

If you can avoid it, don't use an 85 Prelude trans. Its possible, everything works if you use all of the Integra parts. If you’re doing this for a carbed Prelude or 2g Accord use the 86. The case of the 85 is shorter as are the 3rd/4th shift fork and the 5ht shift fork and the needle bearing in the bell housing is smaller. The Integra diff should work fine with the accord. I have one of each and I can't tell the difference. Remember that I have the smaller gen2 axles so I used the gen2 dif with the Integra ring gear. A phantom grip requires a break in period of 60 miles or so, that isn’t mention that in the instructions. Other then that the phantom grip is a breeze to install. This isn’t something for a beginner; I had trouble with it and I have a bit of expierence (not with transmissions though). If you go for it and are unsure of yourself make sure you have a back up plan just incase something doesn’t go right. This is something that you’re going to spend the better part of a weekend doing. If you plan to rebuild make sure that you have access to bearing pullers. Make sure you have the manual, you're going to need it.

Complete document here.

docs.google.com/document/d/1HT_zgIYAh6vHkX3s_FVYRqBpQTSOQz3HTuBS-ldiExk/edit?usp=sharing

ok so everyone in teh world who drives a 2g lude(mostly anyway) knows the regular heater controls. the nice linear slider for the fan the harsh slider for the hot/cold selector and of course the buttons for air direction. well ive become bored with mine and decided to convert my candian model lhd controls to the rare JDM auto climate control system. ill start by saying this is hard to find and ive been told often doesnt work even in the car it origanaly came in lol. BUT i have faith that i will get it in there and working.

so to start off i have received the system and inspected it all over to see what im dealing with as to my knowledge no one has installed one of these in a LHD car. so at first glance its a massive air box with wires and solenoids and actuators all over it. then you have all the sensors and misc odds and ends that go with it. since this system is entirly automated there is no cable for hot/cold selection so you have instead a series of vacum solenoids and vacum actuators. the valve and cable under the hood is replaced with a one actuator and valve, a vacum solenoid, an inline cooland temp sensor, and a wire harness. the cable driven flaps on the air box under the dash are also replaced with vacum solenoids and actuators. the main hot/ cold flap actuator is a huge device about 8 inches long with a position sensor and a big vac pot on the end it moves the flaps to redirect the air around or through the heater core. this is the major diff between the normal and auto units. the rest is basically the same in terms of how it operates as the button controls are all vacum solenoid and actuator operated on all models. there are also a few position sensors on the mechanisms but just attach to the normal linkage.

the sensors include one center dsh mounted light sensor, one under hood air temp sensor, a coolant temp sensor, and and interior air temp sensor. the LHD cars dont have any of the locations or mounts for any of these as our cars never had this as an option. the dash one goes between teh window vents, the interior air temp goes int eh back of the center console with a replacment cover with vents in it, the coolant temp goes inline of the heater core hoses,and the under hood air temp goes in teh grill of the bumper.

so with all the parts explaind on the auto unit its time to check out the stock LHD air box. this one is extremely different to the jdm one. there are no extra mount hole or screw holes for any of the added sensors. there are less linkages, and it looks smaller. so to make it all fit i will have to fabricate mounts for all the new parts. it shouldnt be a big deal and there seams to be plenty of room to fit everything. the original actuators have the mounts for the postion sensors on them wich is a big help although the sensors them selves are designed to go on in a certain direction wich happens to be oposite to what i need to again ill have to mke custom brackets to hold them where they need to be. im going to use all the original actuators and linkages from my air box as i know they fit and work and since they have the sensor mounts on them it works out.

now we go on to the electrical portion of the system. at first look it seems like alot of wiring compared to the original. and it is really. but the nice thing about it is the majority of what you need is a stand alone harness attached to the jdm air box. including the control module. so now your left with a few less "where does this go?". once i got into the car and started looking i found that all the electric vacum solenoids and sensors from the original box have the same conectors on the new system so no cutting is required there. even the main power plug from the original heater control mates up to the new one. the only plug left is a three wire 4 pin plug wich has the recirc signal wire, AC signal wire, and one other. these three wires can be found in the big blue plug on the original control and are the same colour they just need to be spliced together and thats all up and running. now the under hood and dash light sensor have a set of pigtail wires in all the rhd cars. but ours do not. so a set of wires need to be run up to the clock area and out into the engine bay to the bumper. the dash ones are no problem for me as im also installing my jdm electronic navigator at the same time. the under hood ones ill be running out with the factory harness. there is also a harness for the center console sensor but it is pre made and just has to be run. as for the solenoid and coolant temp sensor under the hood, there is a gromet that the original cable ran through. im goign to remove this and the new system has a gromet and the wire harness for both of those untis together and it fits perfectly where the cable used to be. so far im loving this simplicity lol.

ill have to add another section later on the custom brakets and mounts for the air box as i havnt got that far yet. but i have had the entore system up and runing loose on the floor and it all seems to work well so far. im pretty happy with it.

the pictures begin

so got the dash back together with the control panel and navi installed

Complete document here.

docs.google.com/document/d/1l9M4E8MxZxQkN05LXT4ZOaouVwildbqTEV-t--lXyOg/edit?usp=sharing

ook so for anyone who knows what it is youll probly like this. for anyone who doesnt know you will probly love this.

Ok so got my navi in yesterday. so of course had to find out exactly what it does and how, and why, and so on.

So this thing is pretty cool. you input your expected speed of travel(80kph highway you set 80kph) and it displays as follows.

minutes driving

distance traveled

average spped of trip thus far(increases or decreses depending with speed

distance ahead or behind of schedule(shows a - or a +)

mintues behind or ahead of schedule(shows - or +)

ok so finally got it all finished and installed. so check it out

ok some pics of the wiring. i took the original clock wires and used them to power the navi since they had all the needed wires right there. then i tucked everyhting into the wire chanel. it turned out realy clean.

JDM DESTRUCTION WARNING!! if you cant stomach the canabalism of jdm parts ....avert your eyes

that beeing said a prayer to the jdm gods and a moment of silence were conducted prior to this

Alrighty so time to make 1 jdm radio housing fit onto 1 CDM dash

the center section of the dash(radio housing) actually un-screws from the glove box dash panel section. the framing however is not the same from the RHD to the LHD due to the differences in shape and the EQ beeing above the radio on the JDM.

So what i had to do was dismantle the LHD dash and cut out the center frame work that holds the radio and the pocket. i cut it sparingly so i could trim little bits at a time and only what i needed to so i would still have a some strength in the remaining portion. now i had to do the same with the RHD dash...this one i cut even more sparingly as i had only one of these and many LHD ones lol.

What i did was leave the two upper corner screw holes on the two units and cut out from there. on the RHD dash you need to keep all 6 screw holes. i trimmed the RHD upper corners to fit behind the LHD ones for maximum strenght. they are kind of thick and need to be grinded down by half so the two sections (outter and inner) meet properly.

From there its a matter of trimming and testing till it fits right. im going to add metal bracing to join the two sections but havnt got to that yet. wont really make any difference to the fitment anyway just for strength. so heres the pics enjoy

ooook. so got it all ready for install. let em know what you think of my color match

Once upon a time i had done a complete writeup in PDF with pictures a complete breakdown of wiring. however over the years the file hosting site deleted it and I don't have the original file anymore. if I find the time i will add a new writeup.

complete document here.

docs.google.com/document/d/1Ui9cvyKFmGofdxfmKENWwyVr-dZ46F5l8rt7wBLgfwg/edit?usp=sharing

the car

the original

the new

a full write up on the install to come with pictures.

"UPDATE" feb12

so i figured out most everything i need to get it working. as i have stripped out everything that i dont need on the motor, there are a few wires i dont need on the cluster. mainly the speed sensor output.ill make sure i list all the wires for guys who are keeping the stock engine bay and operations. i had it powered up on my work bench at work all day today lol. just couldnt keep my eyes off it lol. more to come soon.

"UPDATE" feb 14

OK so i had made a huge post with sections and everything it took me 2 hours two do it all right and when i went to save it the site locked up and it didnt save, soooo here are the pics and ill have a pdf install manual in a few days with pics and a full descritions. so for now enjoy the pics